Inside Madrid’s Underground Art Revolution: What’s Really Happening at CSA La Tabacalera?

You might have heard whispers about a hidden corner of Madrid where color-splashed walls and vibrant music spark an unexpected sense of belonging. Step inside CSA La Tabacalera, and you’ll instantly feel that creative electricity. Housed in an 18th-century tobacco factory, this self-managed social center has ignited an underground art revolution. Want to see it for yourself?

Originally built in the late 1700s, the Tabacalera building once buzzed with women rolling cigars. Today, it pulses with experimental murals, impromptu dance rehearsals, and lively debates on social change. Whether you’re captivated by rebellious graffiti or drawn to offbeat performances, the spirit of inclusion is undeniable. Locals and visitors alike gather here, forging connections that transcend borders.

So, why not delve deeper? CSA La Tabacalera doesn’t just exhibit art—it breathes life into every brushstroke, every conversation, and every corner of its crumbling corridors. By exploring this unique space, you embrace Madrid’s raw cultural heartbeat. Keep reading to uncover the hidden stories, vivid artistry, and practical tips for visiting a place where creative freedom knows no bounds.

Post last updated on March 14, 2025 (originally published on September 10, 2022) by Roberta Darie.

Travel Update: CSA La Tabacalera Closure

As of July 2023, CSA La Tabacalera is temporarily closed for renovation work (obras de mejora). There is no confirmed reopening date yet. Stay tuned for updates on La Tabacalera’s future reopening.

The purpose of art is to lay bare the questions that have been concealed by the answers.

James Baldwin

Where is CSA la Tabacalera: the multicultural context of in Lavapiés

Walk through Lavapiés, and you’ll hear a dozen languages before reaching the next corner. The scent of spices drifts from Bangladeshi restaurants, mingling with the aroma of Spanish tapas. Flamenco chords hum from a window while a Senegalese drum circle gathers in the square. This is Madrid at its most raw and vibrant—a neighborhood where cultures collide, merge, and reshape the city’s identity.

But it wasn’t always this way. Once a working-class district steeped in manolería (the proud, cheeky spirit of Madrid’s barrios), Lavapiés suffered abandonment after the Spanish Civil War. Decades later, it became a refuge for newcomers searching for opportunity. Today, over 88 nationalities call this place home, with immigrants making up a quarter of its residents. The streets tell their stories—painted on walls, sung in markets, and whispered through generations.

It’s here, in the heart of this ever-evolving landscape, that CSA La Tabacalera found its purpose. In the 1990s, anarchist and squatter movements reclaimed spaces like this, breathing life into abandoned buildings. But La Tabacalera became something more—a living experiment in cultural coexistence. Step inside, and you’re not just visiting an art center. You’re stepping into a dialogue, an argument, a celebration of everything that makes Madrid unpredictable, defiant, and alive.

CSA la Tabacalera: an opportunity for diversity

Step through the unassuming doors of CSA La Tabacalera, and you enter a space where art and activism pulse with the same heartbeat. Here, graffiti spills across walls like an open manifesto, dancers rehearse in corners bathed in dim light, and community meetings stretch late into the night. But this isn’t just a cultural space—it’s a living experiment in self-management, where art isn’t separate from life, but woven into it.

In a city that often frames culture within museums and institutions, CSA La Tabacalera dares to be different. It operates on the belief that artistic expression belongs to everyone, not just those with access to galleries or formal education. This openness makes it a bridge—connecting local struggles with global conversations, and transforming social concerns into creative projects. Art here doesn’t just decorate; it challenges, questions, and sparks debate.

Over the years, this philosophy has shaped CSA La Tabacalera into more than an alternative art center. It has become a model of cultural democracy, where diverse voices converge in unpredictable ways. Whether through muralism, experimental theater, or music that fuses traditions from every continent, it continues to prove that creativity flourishes not in isolation, but in shared spaces—open, spontaneous, and deeply human.

The history of the Tabacalera building and Madrid’s collective memory

In the heart of Madrid, a grand neoclassical structure stands as a silent witness to centuries of transformation. Built in 1790, the building first operated as the Royal Factory of Aguardientes, producing spirits for the Spanish Crown. But by 1809, the scent of tobacco replaced that of distilled alcohol, as the factory shifted to cigar and snuff production, marking the beginning of its industrial legacy.

At its peak, CSA La Tabacalera’s walls echoed with the voices of las cigarreras—women who worked tirelessly rolling tobacco leaves. These workers weren’t just factory hands; they were central to Madrid’s social fabric, shaping both labor rights movements and popular culture. Their presence inspired literary and operatic works, including Carmen, Bizet’s famous opera about a rebellious cigarrera.

But like many historic industrial sites, time caught up with the factory. After Tabacalera/Altadis was privatized in the early 2000s, the building stood abandoned, its future uncertain. Eventually, it passed to the Spanish Ministry of Education, Culture, and Sports, which sought to preserve its cultural significance. This transition laid the foundation for what would become CSA La Tabacalera, a space where the past and present now intertwine—where cigarreras once fought for dignity, today’s artists and activists continue the dialogue of resilience, creativity, and collective action.

How the Self-managed Social Center CSA La Tabacalera started

By the early 2000s, the once-thriving Tabacalera factory stood silent. Plans were drawn to convert it into the National Center for Visual Arts, and in 2007, Spain’s Council of Ministers approved its development. Yet, like many ambitious cultural projects, funding fell short. Instead, a portion of the building was repurposed as Tabacalera, Art Promotion Space, run by the Spanish Ministry of Culture.

But another story was unfolding behind these neoclassical walls. A different group—local artists, activists, and neighbors—had long envisioned something radically different: a space that belonged to the community, not institutions. In 2009, their persistence paid off. They were granted a section of the building, and thus, CSA La Tabacalera was born—not as a museum, but as a self-managed, open-access cultural hub.

From the start, CSA La Tabacalera refused to follow conventional rules. No ticketed exhibitions, no private investors, no rigid hierarchies. Instead, it embraced the belief that art is a human right, not a commodity. Here, freedom of expression takes precedence over financial gain. Decisions are made collectively, echoing the cooperative spirit that once defined Madrid’s working-class movements. Over a decade later, CSA La Tabacalera continues to challenge the boundaries between art, activism, and public space—proving that culture thrives best when it belongs to everyone.

A free & democratic cultural center in the heart of Madrid

As a result, this association distances itself from traditional cultural management practices to promote “free and open culture, coworking, horizontality, transparency, non-profit or exclusive use, but collaborative, supporting, and responsible handling of resources.”

In this regard, CSA la Tabacalera encourages everyone’s involvement and initiative by fostering a wide range of activities. It houses theater, music, dance, painting, conferences, meetings, audiovisuals, workshops, events, neighborhood interventions, and so on.

This dynamic transformed it into a haven for artistic activities, where creators may avoid the constraints of the art world, where their performance reaches other people and directly influences the community.

The CSA la Tabacalera Space

There’s no grand entrance, no polished sign announcing its presence—CSA La Tabacalera is the kind of place you stumble upon and feel compelled to explore. The building itself, a neoclassical industrial structure from the late 18th century, still bears the marks of its past. Three stories, a basement, and wide inner patios define its layout, blending functionality with history. Semicircular arches frame cavernous hallways, while heavy stone facades remind visitors of its former life as a tobacco factory.

Inside, order gives way to creative chaos. The floors are uneven, the walls an evolving canvas of graffiti, and no two rooms look alike. Some are makeshift galleries, others serve as workshop spaces, rehearsal rooms, or gathering spots for discussions. Unlike traditional museums, where artwork is framed and categorized, CSA La Tabacalera thrives on impermanence—murals appear overnight, installations shift, and performances unfold in unexpected corners.

Yet, there’s an unspoken harmony in this disorder. The space doesn’t dictate how it should be used; instead, it adapts to those within it. Here, art isn’t curated—it’s lived. Every wall, corridor, and courtyard tells a story, shaped by the hands of artists, activists, and neighbors who bring it to life. It’s raw, immersive, and undeniably human—a place where history lingers, but the future is always being rewritten.

The Lavapiés’ vibrant context

Few places in Madrid carry as much cultural weight as Lavapiés. Once a working-class neighborhood, today it’s a kaleidoscope of traditions, languages, and artistic expressions. The scent of saffron drifts from Moroccan kitchens, Bollywood music spills onto the streets, and flamenco echoes through narrow alleyways. It’s a place where past and present meet—where Madrid’s history unfolds not in grand monuments, but in the daily rhythms of life.

Tucked within this dynamic district, CSA La Tabacalera thrives alongside some of the city’s most important cultural institutions. Just a short walk away, the Reina Sofía Museum houses modern masterpieces, while La Casa Encendida fosters experimental art and social projects. Indie galleries like Espacio 8, Swinton & Grant, and Africa Verité bring contemporary voices to the forefront.

But Lavapiés is more than its institutions—it’s a living stage, constantly reinventing itself. Events like Tapapiés, an international tapas and music festival in October, and CALLE, the annual street art intervention in May, turn the neighborhood into an open-air canvas. Walk its streets, and you’ll see how graffiti, murals, and installations transform storefronts, doorways, and plazas into art galleries with no walls.

It’s in this restless, ever-evolving environment that CSA La Tabacalera finds its essence—not as an isolated space, but as part of a greater artistic and social conversation.

CSA la Tabacalera in the neighborhood

However, developing mutual understanding, conversation, and coexistence is not always easy.

Therefore, CSA la Tabacalera collaborates with multi-ethnic groups (for example, through musical fusion). It welcomes individuals of all ages and abilities (for instance, with sign language workshops). And also people from all origins and situations, welcoming both specialists and those engaging with artistic creation for the first time.

The center aims to provide space for all the different ways of being and expressing oneself in a diverse context.

Gentrification: a global problem that also affects Madrid

Lavapiés was never meant to be a polished tourist attraction. For decades, it thrived as a working-class district, defined by its cultural diversity and grassroots activism. But as with many urban neighborhoods around the world, rising demand transformed it into prime real estate. Street art, independent cafés, and alternative spaces like CSA La Tabacalera once symbolized local resilience. Now, they fuel real estate speculation.

Property prices in Lavapiés have surged, forcing out long-time residents. Trendy bars replace family-run shops, and once-affordable rentals turn into boutique Airbnbs. This shift threatens the very character that made the neighborhood special. What began as a multicultural haven risks becoming a gentrified façade—artsy on the surface, yet stripped of its authenticity.

Within CSA La Tabacalera, gentrification isn’t just a topic of discussion; it’s a daily reality. Activists, artists, and residents gather to debate how communities can resist displacement. Similar spaces, like La Quimera, also serve as platforms for dialogue, pushing for sustainable solutions that protect local identity.

The question lingers: Can Lavapiés retain its soul while adapting to change? CSA La Tabacalera stands at the crossroads—both a victim of and a refuge from gentrification. Its fate, like that of the neighborhood, depends on those who fight to keep it alive.

A new old management model

As one would expect, CSA la Tabacalera opposes any type of sponsorship. The center believes they endanger the creative freedom and collaboration that should define culture.

It is an endeavor to demonstrate that people, not money, are the primary cultural driver. Their labor, ingenuity, organizational skills, and willingness to share…

Though limited by a lack of financial resources, this space strives to remain as free as the human imagination. Leveraging an inexhaustible resource like the desire for expression makes it a project that is not just viable, but also inspiring.

CSA la Tabacalera and the art world

CSA la Tabacalera collaborates with emerging artists, particularly those from UCM’s Faculty of Fine Arts (but not only). Here they find a place to carry out projects and display their artwork.

Although financial transactions are not allowed on the premises, nothing prevents artists from selling their work after the exhibition or collaborating with other entities.

Because of its reputation as a creative hotspot, CSA la Tabacalera has positioned itself according to art world agents (critics, gallery owners, collectors, museum directors, etc.) who visit it regularly searching for “raw diamonds.”

As a result, this center also serves as a connection point between street art and institutionalized figures.

Bringing art outside the art world

Not all art needs a museum. Some of the most powerful creations exist outside the sterile walls of galleries, unfolding in unexpected places—on the streets, in abandoned buildings, and within communities. CSA La Tabacalera embraces this philosophy, redefining what it means to create, share, and experience art.

Here, creativity isn’t confined to exhibition spaces or academic institutions. Instead, it merges with everyday life, driven by collaboration rather than curation. The center works with local associations like Vecinit@s and Supermanitas, alongside independent blogs such as Educadamente Libre, opening its doors to anyone willing to participate. Art, activism, and daily struggles intertwine, making the space as much a social experiment as an artistic one.

Decision-making reflects this openness. Every 15 days, assemblies determine the programming, budgeting, and logistics, ensuring that power remains horizontal and participatory. There are no directors or curators—only people shaping the space together.

This self-managed model challenges the hierarchical logic of the traditional art world, which often favors exclusivity and commercialization. Instead, CSA La Tabacalera fosters an intentional outsider art space, proving that culture belongs not to institutions, but to those who create and live it. More than a venue, it’s an evolving blueprint for alternative cultural governance—one that values freedom over profit, and community over competition.

Self-management as a cultural practice

Self-management is a practice as ancient as human societies and a theoretical paradigm traced back to Aristotle’s Politics.

In the modern context, we may discover instances connected to anarchist groups in Europe (in the 1920s), American feminism activities (in the 2000s), and initiatives like Bluestockings in New York and Red Emma’s in Baltimore.

However, after the 2008 financial crisis, this sort of project has become increasingly vital, adding the CSA Tabacalera to the list of over 400 social centers presently operating in Spain.

By relying on people’s goodwill and desire to participate and create, CSA la Tabacalera avoided many art organizations’ challenges (particularly funding).

This is its primary advantage and significant vulnerability, as the center will cease to exist (or turn into something else) as soon as it is no longer helpful for the community that shelters, develops, and manages it.

Imagining a better, culturally diverse future

Walking out of CSA La Tabacalera, you don’t just leave a building—you carry a piece of its spirit with you. The energy of the murals, the echo of conversations, the spontaneity of artistic expression—all of it lingers, challenging the notion that culture must be polished, exclusive, or profitable. Just as the cigarreras once shaped Madrid’s social history, today’s artists and activists are redefining what it means to create and share art.

The essence of CSA La Tabacalera lies in its fluidity. It is a place where art and activism converge, where diversity isn’t just acknowledged but embraced. It stands as a living counterpoint to the forces of gentrification, proving that culture belongs to the people who make it, not just those who can afford it. Whether you visit as a curious traveler or an artist searching for inspiration, you’ll find something that defies expectations—an art space with no walls, a community with no borders.

Madrid is a city that celebrates both tradition and rebellion. CSA La Tabacalera embodies that duality—rooted in history, yet always evolving. If you seek a deeper understanding of the city’s creative pulse, step inside. Wander its corridors, listen to its stories, and, perhaps, leave your own mark behind.